Today we compare two Italian pinot grigios. They are THE most expensive ‘grigios I could find at Total Wine. Jermann (2011) is $27; Albino Armani Colle Ara “1607” (2012) is $20.
When I first opened these, I thought this shootout was going to be easy because the Albino Armani was much better than the Jermann, and obviously much less expensive. However, as I tasted both wines over a period of two days with various food, it became obvious that… the first impression was right. This is a wipeout.
THE LOSER, AND I REALLY MEAN LOSER: Jermann is tart, in a bad way, with lots of alcohol in the taste, kind of flat, hardly any sweetness to balance out the mouth-puckering sterno, but there is some honeysuckle. Deep straw/yellow color. 13% alcohol. Total Wine has criminally overpriced this wine at $27; it would be great at around $10 (a check on Wine Searcher.com reveals that the true market price is $19-$20). It’s not terrible, but it is so greedily priced that I am tempted to award it “Truly Awful” status. Pairing with grilled chicken topped with spinach and mozzarela, and later with a rich salmon fillet, did nothing to vault its value anywhere near $27.
THE WINNER: Albino Armani: even more generously colored, this wine has some pink in its deep yellow color (or as the label says, a hint of copper). 13% alcohol. Taste is complex, with mild spices and a sophisticated feel. The sweetness in this wine — I can’t even describe it, except to say that it’s very interesting. Now we’re talking. For all I know, Total Wine is screwing us on the price here too. But I say, it’s worth it. (Wine Searcher .com shows $20 and only $20 as the price. It’s available only at Total Wine.)
Not the best pinot grigio I’ve ever had, but very good and the best of these two by far: Albino Armani Colle Ara “1607” pinot grigio from 2012, at $20. Recommended, and, the winner!
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