Today we compare two Italian pinot grigios. They are THE most expensive ‘grigios I could find at Total Wine. Jermann (2011) is $27; Albino Armani Colle Ara “1607” (2012) is $20.
When I first opened these, I thought this shootout was going to be easy because the Albino Armani was much better than the Jermann, and obviously much less expensive. However, as I tasted both wines over a period of two days with various food, it became obvious Read the rest of this entry »
Continuing with our experience at Bertucci’s Italian Restaurant, today we review a 2010 pinot grigio from California that Bertucci’s sells for $7.50 a glass / $29 a bottle. It was paired with their Cod al Forno main course.
Here’s a pinot grigio that mostly flies under the radar. With such a light aroma that I can’t even describe it, Francis Ford Coppola’s Bianco pinot grigio hits your tongue with crisp grapefruit, tangy lime, and a hint of melon sweetness. That hint of melon makes it more substantial than many other pinot grigios, but might also turn you off if you were expecting a typical, super-light pinot grigio.
It was paired with Bertucci’s Cod al Forno, which is a piping-hot breaded wild Pacific cod baked with marinated tomatoes, and roasted red potatoes. This dish is delicious and is a healthier go-to when you’re hankering for fish & chips. Pairing with Coppola’s pinot grigio was a nice balance, as you would expect the acidity of the white wine to balance the breaded baked fish, but — surprise — the hint of sweetness really made it for me. Coppola’s pinot grigio is:
Recommended.
This kicks off a series that will review various popular wines that are sold at Bertucci’s. These brick oven-style Italian restaurants on the east coast have a warm, modern atmosphere, open kitchen and a “dim the lights” feeling of class.
Manager Chad Phillips and culinary manager Michael Cropper in Christiana, Delaware treated us to their newest dishes (excellent) and wines (very good or excellent, for the price, with one exception). The evening was gratis, but I returned to buy each wine on its own.
In every case, the food improved the wine experience. In one case, the pairing caused a so-so wine to become downright enjoyable. Read on to learn which.
The pairings:
Hi, how are you? I’m good but — well, there are some things I should tell you.
I wildly recommended the 2009 Tiefenbrunner pinot grigio, in this humdinger of a review right here. I stand by that review, but I have to say, the 2010 is not as good. It’s OK, but a bit lifeless, and I am just not digging it.
Second, for years now, I’ve been telling everybody how great and low-priced Nobilo sauvignon blanc is. (My fawning review of the 2009 is here.) At $11, it consistently tastes like a $20-ish wine. Well, the 2010 ain’t so hot. It’s lost some of that bursting-with-citrus magic. Coincidentally, it now sells at Total Wine for the absurdly low price of $7.47.
I am confident that Nobilo 2011 will stage a complete comeback.
Tiefenbrunner, I’m not as sure about, because I only got to know it last year. I am very hopeful that it will return to its 2009 glory days as well.
Until then, these charmers are “Not recommended.” Cheers,
Wineguider
Today, we review a 2009 Italian pinot grigio that cost me $19.
Folks, Ca’ Montini is serious. It is less sweet than many other pinot grigios, so it is less “fun”. But it’s good, some might say, extremely good. Dry, minerally, citrusy, and balanced. However, I just didn’t find that it was delicious enough to merit a price of $19. But this one is close — you might love it. Unfortunately, for your Wineguider, this elegant Italian is:
Not recommended.
Today we review a 2009 pinot grigio from Italy that will cost you $14 at Total Wine.
OK, this Italian white wine with the German-sounding name is absolutely delicious. It comes from the northernmost parts of Italy, bordering not Germany, but Austria. Clean, fun, a dash of minerality on your tongue, full of crisp, juicy citrus and honeydew flavors, with a gentle aroma of pears. Wow. I haven’t compared it directly to the very nice $15 Bolini, which I reviewed here, but I think Tiefenbrunner might be even better.
Tiefenbrunner is also better than the delectable value champion Lagaria pinot grigio, reviewed here. It should be better, since Lagaria is only $9. Is Tiefenbrunner worth the extra $5? Yes. But it’s a close call. Lagaria still gives more joy-per-dollar. If you are throwing a party, go with Lagaria. No-brainer. But if it’s a special dinner with just the two of you, I’d recommend Tiefenbrunner. Or Bolini. Both, also no-brainers.
This pinot grigio is:
Highly recommended.
Today we review a $15 white wine from Italy, the Bollini “Trentino” pinot grigio.
Hi! I’d really like to give you a helpful review of this pinot grigio. The only problem is, I can’t stop drinking it. So I am a bit inebriated. It’s just too perfect. Classic. Gorgeous. Bright, minerally, fun, smooth citrus flavors combine with a very faint hint of sweetness and just a slightly creamy texture to give you a OH WHO CARES, WHERE’S THE OTHER BOTTLES? NOW! HURRY!!
I opened this bottle on a Monday night when I was alone, and 3/4 of it was INSTANTLY ELIMINATED. Meanwhile, I was watching this video review online. Bravo! They got it right.
Bollini Trentino is not going to transport you to Wine Nirvana, but it’s a seemingly perfect example of this grape, and it’s SO good, SO reliable, and SO damn fun that you will have a hard time finding a better pinot grigio. There! I said it. That was a controversial statement. So if you have a different favorite pinot grigio, please let me know in a comment. Or if you want me to stop writing reviews while I am shitfaced on pinot grigio, please let me know in a comment. Until then, Bollini pinot grigio is:
HIGHLY recommended!
Here’s a 2009 California pinot gris that costs $9.50. or $10.00, or $12 (my cost).
The Wineguider survey is clear! You want more pinot gris reviews. (Or pinot grigio — they are the exact same thing.) So, here you go: Three Pears scores quickly because it’s not merely alcohol-flavored water, as many of these wines seem to be. It’s not a face-full of pear flavor, thankfully. It’s on the sweeter and heavier side for a pinot gris, but compared to other wines, it’s not sweet or heavy at all.
I learned about Three Pears from super-friendly Kim, at Hockessin Liquors in Delaware. She absolutely loves it, even though she dislikes pears. Usually, people don’t “absolutely love” pinot gris, so that caught my interest. What do others say? This website calls Three Pears “crisp” and “dry,” but they are lying to your face. This review calls it “sprightly” and says you’ll get flavors of pear, citrus and apple. That’s better. The winemaker’s website mentions pear.
This wine isn’t crazy-good, but it’s good. Its flavors are mild, so it could be seen as slightly boring. But I like its relaxed, slightly sweet, pear and apple mojo. And so, other than Lagaria, Jacob’s Creek and The Birdman, Three Pears is the only pinot gris/grigio so far recommended by your Wineguider. Enjoy!
Today’s subject is a 2007 pinot gris from Oregon that cost me $13 (but look here — only $10.80).
This, ladies and gents, is a really cool bottle. There’s no label! They just painted in red, purple and yellow on a dark green wine bottle. The “I” in Iris is represented by a painting of an eyeball. And the words on the back are sideways. They provide a dictionary definition of “iris.”
Their website says: “Beautiful aromas of orange blossoms and jasmine are accented by hints of figs and pears. On the palate this medium bodied wine bursts with tropical flavors of papaya, banana and mango, with a dash of nectarine.”
I don’t know what that means. Except the banana part. But it doesn’t taste like a banana.
Although it’s pretty good, and I’m a bit on the fence about it, I can’t recommend that you buy Iris pinot gris, even though it’s from Oregon (which I love) and it’s only $13 (which I love even more). It’s definitely interesting, and it’s definitely not bad, but I don’t have the desire to keep drinking more and more. It has some mild sweetness and its aroma is nice, with some melon and a mixture of tropical fruit. But to my stupid mouth, the main flavor was sort of just, melon-sweetened alcohol. However, I will be buying more if I find it for $10.
So, at $13 this one is not recommended, unless I am going to an outdoor concert, or a picnic, where a really cool-looking bottle of white wine will score points, in which case, Iris can’t be beat!
Next!
Today we look at a pinot grigio from Italy that costs $9 a bottle.
Bottom line: Love it! An affordable and very drinkable pinot grigio.
Lagaria is a hot little commodity these days because it’s not super well known, yet it’s very good and it’s very inexpensive. So, you can serve it at all your parties, or bring it to your friends’, and everybody will think you’re a wine expert — yet you hardly spent anything on it. (Or, like one high-end Italian restaurant around here, you can put it on your menu at $7 a glass and people will drink your store room dry, even though the stuff is only $9 a bottle if you know where to find it.)
Why is it so good? As we have said, pinot grigio is often so light and clean that it barely tastes like anything. Well, Lagaria has some real flavors — zippy lime and other citrus flavors with some pleasant mineral inflections on the finish, as one short online review said. BUT, it’s still light and clean (UNlike the dreaded Estancia pinot grigio, which is packed with many flavors and ends up tasting heavy, confused and weird.) By the way, I hereby pledge never to use the word “inflections” in a review again.
Lagaria is fruity, and tangy. It tastes like real pinot grigio. It has a nice, coherent feel in your mouth that speaks with one voice, and it stays interesting while being refreshing. It’s easy to drink (I’m reminded of the Coneheads beeping out the words, “mass quantities”). And finally, it’s a little bit on the sweet side for a pinot grigio, but it’s not too sweet.
This one’s a crowd pleaser. Highly recommended.
Hi! Today your wineguider reviews a $12 pinot grigio from California’s 2008 vintage.
This review is difficult to write because I usually love Estancia wines. They aren’t awesome, but most perform above their price class. I don’t know what happened here, but I think their choice of language on the back label almost warns you about what you’re in for. The first sentence is:
“Simply put, Estancia pinot grigio is better than all the rest.”
What a crock of shit. Sorry, but instead of “bliss” or the other goodies mentioned on the label, you mainly get a mouthful of confusion. It tastes like they might have put some chardonnay or sauvignon blanc in there, to make it interesting. Well, it is kind of interesting, but it doesn’t make you want more and more.
As we have said, pinot grigio usually tastes very clean. Estancia doesn’t. Although its various flavors give you “more” than a typical pinot grigio, and its slight mineral afterfeel on your tongue is nice and pleasant, I preferred the dirt-cheap Jacob’s Creek pinot grigio, reviewed below, which costs, I don’t know, like, 45 cents. Surprisingly, this Estancia wine is:
Not recommended.
Next!
Today we review a pinot grigio from Australia that sells for $6 at Total Wine.
This summer, it’s hot out there. It feels like you’re walking around in a waffle iron. To make matters worse, it’s 2010. So your bank account is a mere shadow, a faded husk, of the account it once was. And you’re super stressed, because you’ve either been let go, or they let everybody else go and you’re stuck doing five times more work.
You need — no, you deserve — some cold, cheap, delicious white wine, my friend. I think I have something for you.
Jacob’s Creek 2008 pinot grigio is best served not merely chilled, but cold. Check. It’s $6. That’s cheap. Check. And although it’s not fully “delicious,” it’s pretty darn good. Two and-a-half out of three ain’t bad. Now, pinot grigios are kind of tricky. They are sometimes so light and clean that it’s like you’re drinking alcohol-flavored water. It’s hard to find one that is actually delicious, and many are disappointing, such as Santa Margherita, which is ragingly popular, sells for $22, and should cost $7.99. (See also: Bose speakers; Enron common stock).
This one is super light and clean. No complexity. No depth. No sweetness. But it’s nicely tart and citrusy. Very refreshing. And it’s not alcohol-flavored water. Plus, you get a whole bottle for the cost of two frappuccinos. Sold!
Recommended.
Today we review 3 pinot grigios: Yalumba ($12), Adelsheim ($15), and Albino Armani ($18).
Bottom line: Yalumba and Adelsheim are not recommended, based on taste. Albino Armani is a very nice pinot grigio, but its price makes it a little bit difficult to recommend.
Before we begin: pinot gris and pinot grigio are just two different names for the same white wine grape. The name used usually depends on the location of the winery — for example, pinot “grigio” is usually used in Italy and California, pinot “gris” in France and Oregon.
1.
Yalumba pinot grigio is Australian and costs $12. It’s a very dry white wine with lots of acidity and minerality but not much in the way of depth, complexity, or fruit. More importantly, overall it just isn’t delicious. A friend who has a great palate noticed a slight aroma of urine. (Yikes.) The first time I tried it, I agreed. After a few more encounters with Yalumba I don’t get that anymore, and its clean taste has grown on me a bit, but it’s still not quite good enough to recommend.
However, I can imagine somebody who really loves dry and minerally white wines being OK with the Yalumba, pairing it with shrimp, sushi or spicy roast chicken.
2.
Adelsheim pinot gris is from Oregon and costs $15. It is very hard to describe, except that it is definitely not yummy. In fact, it is awful. To its credit, it’s not overly sweet, or overly acidic… it doesn’t taste like feet, or anything else that is remotely familiar… and its malignant flavor profile doesn’t linger. Its minerally texture does linger, but only a little.
Since I generally respect Oregon wines, I shared the Adelsheim with some friends to see what they thought. It was universally hated. I wish I could think of something truly good to say about this wine. Wait — the label is beautiful, and features a painting of a woman by winery co-founder Ginny Adelsheim. There!
3.
Albino Armani pinot grigio is from Italy and costs $18 at Total Wine. It is very pleasant, easy to drink, and has a great balance of sweet and citrusy fruit against mild acidity. It smells wonderful, with fresh, tropical scents. And it sort of lights up your mouth. Nice. I can’t imagine anybody hating this wine, but I don’t think it is a massive crowd pleaser or incredibly delicious as a pinot grigio, either.
If Albino Armani were $10 a bottle, I would DEFINITELY recommend it. At $18, it’s a much closer call. I think there are better white wine values.
So, if cost is not a big issue for you, by all means try the Albino Armani. I think you’ll be happy you did. If cost is more important, you can do better with other white wines. I’ll search for a better value pinot grigio to recommend soon, but previously reviewed white wines that are better values include Nobilo sauvignon blanc and Bree riesling.
Next!
Today we review a $10 pinot grigio made in California by Big House vineyards.
The Birdman is a fun wine with a crazy jail-themed label that makes it great for bringing to a party. But don’t be fooled — the contents are serious. This is no watery, weak pinot grigio. Best served well chilled, it’s intense, refreshing, and good on its own, but better when paired with food. That’s because The Birdman has some nice complexity, so it will enhance almost anything you are eating. Subtle tropical flavors are followed by a tart, clean finish, with a zing.
A nice feature: if you are cooped up in chardonnay-only mode, this could be THE wine to help you break out. Why? Because this powerhouse pinot grigio tastes like it has been injected with a good un-oaked chardonnay. So for those who are stuck in the sub-basement of Kendall Jackson, Robert Mondavi and other chardonnays, here is a familiar-tasting, chardonnay-like key that could ease you out into different wines, better times and broader, sunlit uplands.
Finally, fans of sweet wine may be challenged by The Birdman. It tastes a bit alcohol-heavy (13.5% content), and it’s more dry than sweet.
Recommended.
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