Villa Antinori “Toscana” red wine review

17 03 2011

Today we review a 2006 Italian red that is often called a “Super Tuscan”, even though it doesn’t say that anywhere on the label.  (More on that in the Boring Note at the end of this review.) It costs $22 at Total Wine, which is a little too high since many merchants are selling this wine for around $15 or $16, as you can see here

OK I really liked Villa Antinori Toscana.  It tastes very deep and dark, like distilled blackberries and cranberries buried under oak, lots of tannins, and a little chocolate.  Smooth.  Dense.  A little smoky.  A very dry, luxurious texture, and an inviting aroma with a fair amount of alcohol in there.  Balancing that dry texture is a warm juiciness in the flavor.  Basically, it tastes like a very good, extra dense and juicy chianti classico.  It is 60% sangiovese, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, and 5% syrah.

At $15 or $16, I would buy Villa Antinori Toscana all the time.  Even at $22, this dry yet juicy Italian is:

Villa Antinori "Toscana" red wine reviewRecommended.

Boring Note:

There is no law that specifies what a Super Tuscan is.  It is generally a wine from Tuscany (Toscana, in Italian) that has a blend of grapes similar to chianti.  The term used to be reserved for truly kickass wines, so of course today all wines like this are called Super Tuscan.  Many Super Tuscans replace some of the sangiovese that is required to dominate chianti with cabernet sauvignon (true for the wine reviewed today).  Many Super Tuscans say Indicazione Geografica Tipica on the label.  IGT generally means that you are getting grapes from the location shown on the label, in this case, Tuscany…. 

Whew.  I’m already bored, and we didn’t even scratch the surface of Italian wine rules and vocabulary.  Is this stuff worth learning?  I’m not sure — even if you master it, you find that it does not allow you to choose great wines.  You still have to go by word of mouth (or trial and error).  I would just sit back and read Wineguider.





Ruffino chianti superiore review: Isn’t it ironic

16 03 2011

Today we review a 2008 chianti superiore from Italy (of course) that costs around $11 or $12, but is just $9 at Costco.

You would think that Ruffino‘s chianti “superiore” would be, ahem, superior to other chiantis, such as chianti classico, or classico reserva.

But this one isn’t superior to much of anything.  It’s on the light side and it’s dry, not juicy.  Kind of bitter.  Not warm, not complex, not delicious.  Maybe it would be great with food?  Sorry, I just didn’t care for this, despite its promising name.  I can’t suggest that you spend even the $9 that it requires at Costco.  This one is:

Not recommended.





Red Bicyclette pinot noir review: Umm…

14 03 2011

Tonight it’s a controversial French pinot noir from 2009 that will cost you about $10.

This wine is famous, not for its taste, but because there was a huge controversy about it a couple years back.  It seems that the French actually sold about a kagillion gallons of fake pinot noir to the maker of Red Bicyclette, which affected 2006 and previous vintages.

So I bought a bottle, thinking “maybe now, it will be awesome for the price, to help give this label a credibility come-back.”  In my optimism, I ignored the absence of maker’s name (Gallo) on the bottle.  I ignored the winemaker notes, which admit that this pinot is still cut with 14% merlot and syrah.  And I ignored this, on the back label: “Bottled by: Reh Kendermann Gmbh Weinkellerei — Bingen, Germany.”  (????)

Rather than awesome, I felt it was just bland, sweet, fake cherry water that failed to resemble pinot noir.  I poured most of the bottle down the drain.  My bitterness from wasting $10 on this wine is lessened only by the satisfaction of writing those last two sentences.  If you don’t have a wine blog, but you, too feel burned by Red Bicyclette, please feel free to leave a comment on this review.  Or if you work for Gallo, and want to vent at me for being an unqualified wine-swilling jerk, please feel free to leave a comment.  

Unfortunately this pinot is:

Not recommended.





Tiefenbrunner pinot grigio review: WOW

13 03 2011

Today we review a 2009 pinot grigio from Italy that will cost you $14 at Total Wine.

OK, this Italian white wine with the German-sounding name is absolutely delicious.  It comes from the northernmost parts of Italy, bordering not Germany, but Austria.  Clean, fun, a dash of minerality on your tongue, full of crisp, juicy citrus and honeydew flavors, with a gentle aroma of pears.  Wow.  I haven’t compared it directly to the very nice $15 Bolini, which I reviewed here, but I think Tiefenbrunner might be even better. 

Tiefenbrunner is also better than the delectable value champion Lagaria pinot grigio, reviewed here.  It should be better, since Lagaria is only $9.  Is Tiefenbrunner worth the extra $5?  Yes.  But it’s a close call.  Lagaria still gives more joy-per-dollar.  If you are throwing a party, go with Lagaria.  No-brainer.  But if it’s a special dinner with just the two of you, I’d recommend Tiefenbrunner.  Or Bolini.  Both, also no-brainers. 

Tiefenbrunner pinot grigio reviewThis pinot grigio is: 

Highly recommended.





Tilia malbec review: keep it simple

4 03 2011

Today we check out a 2009 malbec from Mendoza, Argentina that cost me $8.

I first had Tilia at a restaurant.  It was a cheaper red, among a collection of overpriced, mediocre labels — that was not a great sign for Tilia.

But I tried it, together with pasta in a spicy red sauce, and really liked it!  It’s very juicy, fairly deep and dark, and most importantly at such a low price, it does nothing wrong (unless you like your wine bone-dry).  To test the bar effect,** I tried it at home, and it held up:  for only $8, Tilia is a no-brainer that you will enjoy with a burger, pizza, that pasta and red sauce, or by itself.  Not much complexity or tannins — just a simple, dark-fruited and easy-drinking red that has more to offer than your usual Yellow Tail / Barefoot / etc. 

Plus it’s a malbec, which is all the rage these days, so it’s a great choice to bring to a party.

Tilia malbec review

Recommended.

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**The mysterious “bar effect” often makes a wine seem captivating, original and wonderful when you’re out among the bright lights and beautiful people, only to disappoint gravely when you drink it at home in front of the kitchen sink.





Ghost Pines merlot review: Happy Birthday!

27 02 2011

Today we check out a 2007 merlot from California that cost $16 at the wonderful Premier Wine in Wilmington, Delaware.

This merlot is 51% from Napa and 49% from Sonoma.  Even though it’s a serious merlot that really announces itself in your mouth, this stuff is FUN, baby — a party on your tongue!  Here’s why:  Ghost Pines merlot tastes way better than its price.  It absolutely beats the pants off the $17 Kendall-Jackson 2006 “Jackson Estates Grown” merlot.  Tasting them back-to-back, Ghost Pines makes the KJ seem as though it has literally no taste at all.  Ghost Pines has very adult, responsible California red wine flavors of blackberry, mocha, and spice, and it smells perfect for a California merlot.  And it has warm, moderately strong tannins to suck the moisture out of your mouth, so you know it’s going to be killer with steak.  

At the same time, there’s this tiny, juicy hint of something a little wild.  Is it frosting from one of those $5 premium cupcakes?  Red Stag black cherry bourbon?  A trace of birthday cake?  I don’t know — you’ll have to decide.  And when you do, promise me you’ll come back and tell us what you thought.  Until then, this warm, medium-to-full bodied winner is: 

Ghost Pines merlot reviewHighly recommended, and a Best-Value.





Wineguider: wine review shootouts

27 02 2011

Welcome to Wineguider, the wine comparisons website.  All shootouts, all the time.  Some of them, not even close to fair.  Our simple mission:  we review affordable wines that you can actually find at the store.  Please subscribe on the right to be the first to receive each new wine review.  I’m sorry about the ads … if you’d like to contribute so I can get rid of them, you can send 2 or 3 bucks or whatever by Paypal to wineguider@gmail.com.  Enjoy!





Kenwood pinot noir review: holy MACKEREL

23 02 2011

Today we look at a California pinot that I bought for $13, on sale — usually $15.

Whoa!  Kenwood Russian River Valley 2009 pinot noir is damn good!  It really tastes like pinot noir.  It’s easy-drinking, at 13.5% alcohol.  And it’s delicious– I want to keep drinking glass after glass.

Who knew?  This label seems like such a huge, mass-production winery.  It’s not.  Then again, it’s not a tiny boutique, either.  I have to admit, I did not expect a pinot noir from this label to be this good.  It is medium-bodied, so it’s not “see-through” in your glass.  Yet, it won’t overpower whatever you’re eating.  It has that very “pinot” combination of roses, cola, cherry and mushroom, with a bit of spice.  It’s on the juicier side of things, rather than earthy and dry.  And it has zero — zero — pinot noir “stinkyness,” which many people love, but I am not so crazy about.

This is a great middle-of-the-road, non-controversial pinot noir.  If somebody tells you to bring pinot to a dinner party, bring Kenwood Russian River.  Sure, there are some that are a little better at $15, like the Mark West Santa Lucia Highlands — but that is a limited production wine.  Considering availability, I am not sure that anything at this price beats Kenwood.  And if you can find it for $13 as I did, it’s a no-brainer.

Kenwood pinot noir reviewHighly recommended.





Block Nine pinot noir review: digital representation of pinot

22 02 2011

Today we look at a 2009 pinot from California that I bought for $13.

Block Nine vineyards is dedicated to making only pinot noir, which is really cool.  Right now they offer only the “Caiden’s Vineyards” pinot.  The famous Robert Parker has called the 2009: “Everything a pinot noir should be,” and said, “even more shocking is how good Block Nine pinot noirs are for their price.”  His notes on the 2008 included: “Earthy, gamy, plum and cola aromas jump from the glass of this medium plum/garnet-colored wine. Complex notes of herbs, sweet cherries and sassafras follow through on the palate.”

All of which is baffling and mildly hilarious, because, unfortunately, this California red with the pretty dark-pink color tastes like alcohol-infused cherry water, not pinot noir.  It’s very pleasant, light-to-medium bodied, and easy to drink.  It’s also too sweet, typical of California pinots.  To be fair, it does have a bit of spice and floral action going on, which is nice.  Overall it’s like a computer-generated replica of pinot noir, by the guy who made the ’80s Atari video games.  The big problem for Block Nine is Mark West, which is still under $9 at many stores, and really does taste like pinot noir. 

Cool bottle, awesome “one grape only” philosophy for a winery, but Block Nine is:

Not recommended.





Kendall-Jackson cabernet sauvignon review: IT IS DECIDEDLY SO

31 01 2011

Today we look at a 2007 cab from California.  I paid $19, but you can buy it for $15 at Total Wine.

This is the “vintner’s reserve” cab from Kendall-Jackson.  That sounds pretty special.  It’s not.  It’s actually their bottom-of-the-line.  But that doesn’t mean it tastes bad. 

In fact, this dark-ruby cab is very nice to drink.  Go ahead and buy a bottle.   You’ll like it.  The winemaker says it “opens with deep black cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors. Intense, round and well-structured tannins provide a strong backbone throughout the middle. Cedar and vanilla notes linger on the finish, beckoning another sip.”  OK, I’ll go with that, although it may be a somewhat brilliant technicolor description, when the wine is actually painted in more subdued shades.

Now, when you follow my advice and try K-J cabernet, will you **love** it?  My sources say no.  Will you remember it?  Maybe not.  But I guarantee you’ll like it.  For me, that’s saying a lot.  At $15, this is a damn nice example of a California cabernet. 

Kendall-Jackson cabernet sauvignon reviewRecommended.





Buffalo Grove zinfandel review: great news

17 01 2011

Today we review a $9 red zinfandel from the 2009 vintage in the exclusive wine region “California.”

HEY this zin is nice, and it’s cheap.  Is it great?  No.  Do I want to keep drinking glass after glass?  No, but then again, I don’t really love red zinfandel. 

If I did love zinfandel, I would absolutely love Buffalo Grove.  It’s totally drinkable.  That’s saying a lot, because I usually hate inexpensive red wine.  I found this at Total Wine.  It smells like a generic California red, but it has a snappy, bright, peppery, open and very berry-berry taste that wakes you up.  And at just 12.5% alcohol, it’s easy-drinking.  I liked the deeper, darker Zen of Zin more, but that’s a little more expensive.

Buffalo Grove zinfandel review

Recommended.





Palo Alto Reserve red wine review

7 01 2011

Here’s a 2009 red blend from Chile’s Maule Valley that will cost you $8 at Costco.

Say!  This stuff  is pretty good for $8!   So, why I have I been preparing to “not recommend” it?

Because when I first opened it, it really wasn’t very good.  But on day 2, this wine is very enjoyable — almost delicious.  Although its aroma remains musty and nondescript, the taste has transformed from green, under-ripe sterno to a dry, alcohol-ish transport device for tannins.  This glass of unknown dark and dusty fruit combined with spice and cigar paper is making me want more and more. 

60% cabernet, 25% carmenere, and 15% syrah.  13.5% alcohol.  If you don’t have the patience to wait a day after opening it (and re-corking, of course), then you might want to buy a decanter and let it sit for an hour or two before enjoying.

Recommended, and if it weren’t so quirky when first opened, it would also be a Best Value.Palo Alto Reserve red wine review





The Little Penguin cabernet sauvignon review

7 01 2011

Hi!  Today we look at a 2009 cabernet from south eastern Australia that will cost you only $6.

This is gonna be quick — don’t bother with Little Penguin cabernet sauvignon.  It tastes like cheap red wine.  Medium-bodied.  Doesn’t really taste like cabernet.  Slightly strange.  Not yummy.

I will say this:  certain bottles of their pinot noir that I’ve tried (same cost) have been good for the price.  But this one’s a no-go.

Next!





Penfolds Koonunga Hill shiraz cabernet review – STRIKER!

6 01 2011

Today we examine a 2008 southern Aussie blend that you can buy at Costco for $7.69.

This medium-to-full-bodied red smells like a nice cab with some black cherry shiraz notes, but on your tongue it’s jammy blueberry shiraz all the way, balanced by soft tannins and a touch of chocolate.  It’s better on day 2: you get more cabernet, and less alcohol.

And it’s a screamer.  In fact, let me be frank — 

it’s the new value red wine top dog — the big cheese, the head honcho — Penfolds Koonunga Hill shiraz/cab blend is HIGHLY desirable even at $13, and it’s better than many $20 wines I have tried.  It’s warm.  Tilted toward the sweet side of the sweet/dry spectrum.  Big, but won’t overpower most food.  It was the only red served at the hip New Year’s party I attended in posh West Chester, PA, and it beat 14 other reds in my friends’ $15-or-less blind tasting. 

Our past favorites in the red wine value race are narrowly eclipsed by this reliable Godzilla.  Highly recommended, and a blatant “Best Value” red.   Bravo! 

Penfolds Koonunga Hill shiraz cabernet review





I’m such a cork tease

5 01 2011

In the next few days I will be reviewing some wines that present a serious challenge to the dominance of our current selection of best value reds.  Stay tuned.  Although these are all about value, not ultimate wine nirvana, they are still extremely enjoyable to drink.  So, you’ve got THAT going for you.

One of them is available primarily at Costco.  Here in Delaware, you don’t have to be a member to shop at their wine store — and you get the low member prices.  If you’re not a member, you might want to check whether your local Costco has these same rules.

Cheers!  -Wineguider

P.S.   Actually “cork tease” means a person who always talks about great wines they are going to open, but they never do.  My problem is the opposite — I don’t talk about them, or mention them.  I just notice the bottle, and soon it’s gone.





Most popular wine reviews for 2010

2 01 2011

Happy new year!  Today we check out the most popular reviews for 2010 here at Wineguider wine reviews.  Getting right to it, these 3 reviews had the most views in 2010, by a sizeable margin:

  1. Hob Nob pinot noir
  2. Oyster Bay sauvignon blanc
  3. Mark West pinot noir 

Despite the raging, unprecedented popularity of the California chardonnay series, we have two pinot noirs and a sauvignon blanc — nice.  I like how pinot noir is sort of the new cab/merlot.  And though sauvignon blanc isn’t yet the new chardonnay, I can hope.  

It’s surprising that the no. 1 review for the year was a dis.  I admit that when I first tried Hob Nob in a nice bar, I thought it was a real winner.  I even gave it a second chance review, when I found it selling for significantly less, but still could not muster a recommendation. 

Which makes sense when you have the unbelievable Mark West pinot noir for only $9.  And don’t get me started on the Mark West Santa Lucia Highlands, which is just freaking unbelievable for around $15, or even less.

Of course, I wish the top 3 included some of my personal favorites (Pomelo, BolliniRosemount, Toasted HeadChilensis price drop alert, Domaine Serene, Lange, Zen of Zin, The Birdman, and the guest-review of Chateau Montet by That Girl), but you can’t have everything, can you?

As always, if you want me to review a wine, you can e-mail me at wineguider@gmail.com

Cheers and here’s looking forward to 2011!

-Wineguider





David Hill Willamette Valley pinot noir review

28 12 2010

Here’s a 2007 pinot noir bought at Total Wine for $22, from Oregon’s famously delicous Willamette Valley.

Day 1:  Hmm, $22.  Tastes like real pinot noir, but more like real pinot noir’s evil twin.  Thin.  Sour.  Cherry.  Borderline bitter.  Aromas of your grandparents’ basement.  It’s not terrible, in fact I think it might even be very good, in a French burgundy sort of way.  But not my cup of tea. 

Day 2:  Still $22.  But today it smells like licorice and chocolate, with a sexy, “real pinot noir” aroma that tells you this stuff is serious — wow!  Taste — still a little sharp, but much better than Day 1.  Enjoyable.  Medium-bodied.  Still not my cup of tea exactly, and definitely not a crowd pleaser.  But it’s very good pinot noir.

For me, if it were priced at $16 or $17:  Yes!!

At $22?  Can’t quite recommend it.  But it’s close.  If you really love pinot noir, you should definitely try it — you’ll find David Hill one of the most interesting, quality pinots under $40.  On Day 2, that is.

Not recommended.





Jordan Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon review

25 12 2010

Merry Christmas! Today we check out a 2006 California cabernet that will cost you somewhere between $40 and $60. 

I paid $47 for this cab at Costco, but I’ve found it ranging from $38 to $70.  Wow.

This is a very pretty cab.  It’s only 13.5% alcohol, so it’s not fire-breathing.  It’s lighter and has fewer tannins than some of the big boys from California.  But it’s more elegant, so you can pair Jordan Alexander Valley with all kinds of food — it’s not just a red meat wine. 

The aroma offers strong alcohol, cloves, vanilla, and a mix of cedar and red/black raspberries, like a pinot noir.  You’ll taste mainly oak and black raspberries.  It tastes young, so storing this wine for a few years will likely deliver a more sublime experience.  It isn’t pure cabernet sauvignon: it’s 19.5% merlot, 4.5% petit verdot and 1% malbec.  Any downside?  Sure.  For its price, it is, like this review, a little boring.

At $45, this wine is a go.  I probably wouldn’t pay $50 or more for it, but I might if I wanted a delicious red wine that has a fresh take on traditional California cab traits, and is also light on its feet.  Recommended.Jordan cabernet sauvignon review





Toasted Head barrel reserve chardonnay review

22 12 2010

Today we examine a 2008 “reserve” chardonnay from California’s Russian River Valley that goes for $15. 

14.5% alcohol.  If you follow alcohol percentages, you know this is a bit high for a white wine.  But I like that Toasted Head has amped up its reserve chardonnay in this way.  It’s like a Colt-45 version of white wine, with a splash of Vicodin — party on, Garth! 

And I’ll need all the amping-up I can get to muscle down this larger-than-life, 3D-animated cartoon version of California chardonnay.  ULTRA-full of classic California chard flavor.  Super ripe.  Bonk-you-on-the-head spicy, thick, sweet and creamy.  Like a trusty oversized flame-thrower, it will methodically wipe out the taste of any food you attempt to pair it with.  These chardonnays tend to give you lots of oak and butter, but if you think about it, it’s more like DAP Plastic Wood and Country Crock Vegetable Oil Spread, fresh from Wal-Mart.  This one is no exception.

Seriously, if you do like California chardonnay, you may truly love Toasted Head barrel reserve, since it’s like drinking California chardonnay squared.  But if you like white wine for its natural, fresh and delicious real fruit flavors balanced against crisp tartness, citrus or acidity, you may spit up your Toasted Head barrel reserve all over your new shirt.  At least you’ll be feeling good while you do it.





Down goes Chilensis! Down, goes, Chilensis!

21 12 2010

Hi!  When you’re done reading, please contribute to the survey, by leaving a comment below.

My review of Chilensis pinot noir said it’s $9 a bottle, making this a value monster.  But Premier Wine in Delaware is now selling it for just $7.99.  Wow — after discovering this delicious bargain pinot, the last thing I expected was to see the price go down. And no, Delaware’s prices are not super low — Georgia and Florida are lower, for example.  

Chilensis pinot now displaces Five Rivers cabernet sauvignon as the most astounding red wine value that I’m aware of.  With the $7 Rosemount shiraz a close third.  Five Rivers and Rosemount are more crowd-pleasing than Chilensis pinot.  But if you love pinot, or you like that leathery South American wine thing, Chilensis is unbeatable.  Almost as unbeatable as George Foreman against the world’s heavyweight champion Joe Frazier, which you might want to skip if you have a delicate constitution:

SURVEY:  add a comment below, telling us your favorite red wine value.  Any price range is fine — we’re talking great value here, not just rock-bottom price.





Yellow Tail sparkling wine review – CONTROVERSY!

10 12 2010

As we continue searching for champagne that makes sense for New Year’s Eve, today we look at this Australian sparkling wine for $9.

Such controversy!  Reviews are really mixed on this bubbly.  This guy says it’s repulsive, and undrinkable, and this other guy says, “no joke,” it’s actually decent, fruity with a smooth finish.

Well, the second guy is right!  I know wine snobs are supposed to hate it, but this stuff is good!  It’s very fruity, and yes, it’s sweet.  However, it’s not as sweet as the stuff you had in high school (was is “André”? — let’s Google that sucker — ahh, I see their Peach Passion is available for $5.19, good, good).   Of course, the stuff you had in high school probably wasn’t “72% Semillon, blended with Traminer, Viognier and Trebbiano” — I’m feeling better about [yellow tail] already.

This Aussie is also very drinkable, because they don’t overdo the bubbles.  You can actually tell that you’re drinking wine.  This, and the price, make it great for any ol’ day of the week.  The taste is unusual — oranges and mangos — but I loved it.  (That orange note makes it perfect for mimosas, by the way.)  I just wanted to keep on guzzling glass after glass.  Complex?  Refined?  Nope.  But it’s light and fun, and it has a real “champagne” cork that makes a loud BOP!! when you open it.  I still say: for bubbly, you gotta go extreme: cheap, or expensive ($45 and up).  Those “serious looking” mid-priced bottles are just a waste of your money.*  And for New Year’s, it’s cheap and fun all the way, baby.   This fun, fruity, $9 wonderboy is:

Yellow Tail sparkling wine review

Recommended!

*But I love to be proven wrong.  If there’s a mid-priced bubbly you like, please let me know.  I’m at wineguider @ gmail.com.





Chilensis reserva pinot noir review – WEB REDEMPTION

9 12 2010

Today we review a 2009 pinot noir from Chile that will cost you $9 at Total Wine.

This is a smoky yet juicy, leathery, slightly dry pinot noir.  Tasting it makes me think of those South American scenes at the end of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, even though that was Bolivia.  The arrow below points to the origin of this wine, Chile’s Maule Valley.

It smells great — like a box full of expensive spices AND high quality coffee cake — and it has a MANLY taste:  medium bodied, some tannins, and some dark fruit. 

And it utterly redeems the Chilensis name, after my recent encounter with this label’s carménère.  At this price, even at $13, Chilensis pinot noir is a no-brainer. 

I say, buy it.

Cheers!

Chilensis reserva pinot noir review





Jade Mountain cabernet sauvignon review – oh MY

6 12 2010

Today we review a 2007 –

WOW!!  Holy mackerel, I love this bargain California cabernet.  It’s spicy.  It’s dense.  It’s real.  And it’s only $12 . . . .  WTF?! 

Kyle, at Capers & Lemons restaurant in Wilmington, Delaware, served me this wine and I need to buy him a 6-pack, at least, as thanks.  For those of you who crave details that don’t matter:  Jade Mountain is made of cabernet sauvignon grapes from Napa Valley (55%), Sonoma County (42%), and Lake County (3%).

It’s not the most natural, or organic wine you’ll ever taste.  A few others in this price range (meaning, to be honest, a little more expensive) are more open, more bright, more “easy to taste” — this one is on the darker side, more extracted, more deep.  But for 12 bucks, it’s AWEsome. 

How does this dark-red-fruited value monster compare to the Boy Wonder, $9-$11 Five Rivers cabernet?  It’s better.  But if you compare the prices, it’s exactly comparable — meaning, Jade Mountain is $1 to $3 better than Five Rivers.  Jade Mountain cab is more flavorful, more full-bodied and velvety, and has more prominent tannins.  YUM.   More steak, please.

This California cabernet is a blatant Best Value winner.  And it is:

Jade Mountain cabernet sauvignon reviewHighly recommended!!





Nicolas Feuillatte rosé champagne review: THE TEST

6 12 2010

As your picky Wineguider continues asking “what champagne for New Year’s Eve?” today we review a $50 French rosé, Nicolas Feuillatte.

OK this stuff is serious.  It has a very fruity, slightly spicy aroma.  Maybe that’s because it’s 60% pinot noir.  (And 10% chardonnay, and 30% pinot meunier, whatever THAT is).  The taste is also interesting, very balanced.  Tasting less sweet than the aroma suggests, it gives you sparkly strawberries and blackberries combined with a tart, alcohol-ish snap.  The bubbles are NOT overwhelming, and you get some of the joy of drinking a good wine — nice!  

But then, I did THE TEST.  I brought this $50 bottle to a big, fun Christmas party with a live band and guests in their 30s – 60s, in an affluent neighborhood in West Chester, PA.  This, and a bottle of Martini & Rossi sparkling rosé, which is just $15.  The results?  At the end of the night, the Nicolas Feuillatte was untouched.  The Martini & Rossi was drained.  Like, half a glass left.  And you can’t say it was because the M&R looked better — these bottles look eerily identical.

The lesson?  For a big party like New Year’s Eve, it doesn’t make sense to break the bank on bubbly.  Cheap works.  Or at least, it CAN work, if you buy the right kind.  Lesson 2?  Martini & Rossi rosé is FUN, as I said in my recent review.  And when you’re not buying for a big party, I say go extreme: either cheap n’ sweet, or high end — $45 and higher.  Mid-priced bubbly is a waste of your money, because it just doesn’t taste good — overwhelmed with bubbles and alcohol, and not much else.

Nicolas Feuillatte brut rosé champagne is very good, and I highly recommend it for general purposes.  But I can’t recommend that you buy it “in quantity” for your New Year’s Eve party.  Next!





Chilensis reserva carmenére review

6 12 2010

Today we review a $9 red wine from Chile — a carmenére — which I found at Total Wine.

Hi!  Today we look at a different kind of wine, a carmenére.  That’s a grape.  For those of you just getting into wine, this was a helpful fact when I first started — all these names, merlot, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, are just the names of different kinds of grapes.

So, what does this stuff taste like?  Have you ever gotten a big cigarette lighter and a piece of saddle leather and just lit that sucker up, blew it out, and then sucked on it?  Me either.  But I feel like this describes the experience I’m having right now.  It’s not very good.  But for $9, what do you expect?  Well, I don’t expect much.  But that doesn’t mean I’m going to recommend this wine.  It tasted “cheap” to me on my first sip, and later sips didn’t really change my mind.  Unfortunately, this wine is not recommended. 

Next!





Martini & Rossi sparkling rose review – PARTY PEOPLE IN THE HOUSE

4 12 2010

New Year’s is coming, so it’s time for bubbly.  Today, it’s a $15 Italian rose sparkling wine.    

OK I have an announcement:  there are no rules when it comes to bubbly.  Sure, “champagne” has to come from France, but really, any bubbly is fine.  Do whatever the hell you want.  Here’s why:  unless you spend a whole lot of money, it usually tastes like crap!  Yeah!  Woo hoo!!  Take your shirt off!!  It just doesn’t matter.  With that in mind, today we review Martini & Rossi sparkling rose.

The verdict?  It’s young and innocent and happy, and it doesn’t make me grimace or swear when I taste it, and the bottle looks EXACTLY LIKE this $53 bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte rose champagne that you’re droolin’ all over, which I will review next.  Nice!

In fact, it’s pretty damn good, and you should buy it.  Especially if you want a drinkable, sweeter bubbly and you don’t want to break the damn bank.

And you don’t want to break the bank.  Because on New Year’s Eve, bubbly isn’t really important — you’re much more worried about your shoes being banged up, your clothes not fitting right, throwing up, and the ever-present nightmare, trying to be cool at the party without coming off like a WEIRDO.  Where does the “quality of the champagne” rank, in this evening?  Minus 14?  So, I hereby give you full permission to buy this lovely $15 rose from Italy.

Party on!   (God, that made me sound like a weirdo, didn’t it?)Martini & Rossi sparkling rose review





Pomelo sauvignon blanc review – IT’S A SECRET

3 12 2010

This 2009 sauvignon blanc is from California and it costs — I don’t know.  I’ll Google it, and tell you at the end of the review.  (As usual, the price will be a big factor in whether I recommend it or not.)

HEY!   Sipping it for the first time, and it’s really nice.  Lemon, lime, floral tastes, organic, juicy, natural, a bit complex, a little bit sweet, and even a little minerally . . .  also a bit of that “green grass” taste that sauv. blancs deliver . . .  but overall, I can’t say enough good things about this white wine.  It’s not super clean or crisp, because it’s just so flavorful, and it has that slightly sweet undertone.   But it’s still very, very drinkable.

Full disclosure: I got this free.  (Which is why I have no idea what it costs.)  I received it from the folks at Mason Cellars, who are famous for their sauvignon blancs.  And I can see why.  This lovely white wine is FUN.  I want more of it, right now! 

OK, time to risk looking like a fool:  I’m going to GUESS what this wine costs.  Ummmm . . . I’ll say, . . . $18 — even though I’m thinking it could really be worth more. And the real cost is . . .

[Google search] . . .

HOLY COW IT’S TEN BUCKS!  What!??  Nice!!  BUYBUYBUYBUY!!  There you go — this wine is highly recommended.  Cheers!

Pomelo sauvignon blanc review





Bollini pinot grigio review – HELP!

30 11 2010

Today we review a $15 white wine from Italy, the Bollini “Trentino” pinot grigio.

Hi!  I’d really like to give you a helpful review of this pinot grigio.  The only problem is, I can’t stop drinking it.  So I am a bit inebriated.  It’s just too perfect.  Classic.  Gorgeous.  Bright, minerally, fun, smooth citrus flavors combine with a very faint hint of sweetness and just a slightly creamy texture to give you a OH WHO CARES, WHERE’S THE OTHER BOTTLES?  NOW! HURRY!!

I opened this bottle on a Monday night when I was alone, and 3/4 of it was INSTANTLY ELIMINATED.  Meanwhile, I was watching this video review online.  Bravo!  They got it right. 

Bollini Trentino is not going to transport you to Wine Nirvana, but it’s a seemingly perfect example of this grape, and it’s SO good, SO reliable, and SO damn fun that you will have a hard time finding a better pinot grigio.  There!  I said it.  That was a controversial statement.  So if you have a different favorite pinot grigio,  please let me know in a comment.  Or if you want me to stop writing reviews while I am shitfaced on pinot grigio, please let me know in a comment.  Until then, Bollini pinot grigio is:

Bollini pinot grigio review

 HIGHLY recommended!





What wine to serve at Thanksgiving?

22 11 2010

Here are some ideas for what you might serve this Turkey Day.

My overall answer is, drink what you like.  I don’t believe there is any “Supposed To” with wine.  Now, wine lovers already know what they like.  Others — normal people — just want an idea, “please,” so they can check wine off their list.

So, here you go!

Some will tell you, Thanksgiving is the time for the very light red wine, Beaujolais Nouveau.  You’ll see a ton of this on sale now.  I think it sucks, usually, so I’m not going to recommend it.  If you see a beautiful bottle with colorful flowers all over it for a low price like $8, I suggest you steer clear.

I say, Thanksgiving is the time for crowd-pleasing wines.   If you’re putting on a fairly big, nice dinner, consider serving 3 types:

1.  Pink: It’s a holiday celebration, so something bubbly makes sense.  I suggest a rosé champagne (called “sparkling wine” if it’s not French).  The color is fun, and it has more flavor to compliment your food than regular champagne, because it contains some non-bubbly red wine.  My strategy here: go extreme.  Either cheap and sweet with something obvious like Martini & Rossi Austi Spumante, or invest in something really good like Nicolas Feuillatte ($40) — or even better. In my experience, spending $20-$25 and hoping for a “pretty darn good” sparkling wine leads to disappointment.  Even the well-regarded $30-$35 Domaine Carneros brute rosé is just, “OK,” to me.

2.  White: Riesling.  If you want your dinner spread to look really cool, Bree riesling ($12) — because of that super classy and unique bottle.  For more flavor, Kim Crawford dry riesling ($16) is better and more interesting.  And if you want to “buy American” this Thanksgiving, the delicious Eroica from Washington State ($20) is always great.  These are sweet wines, crowd-pleasers that go wonderfully with appetizers.

For something less sweet that is still on the sweet side, and is more of a conversation starter:  Evolution 9 white blend from Oregon ($15).  Nine different grapes! 

For something more dry and tart: sauvignon blanc.  Budget:  Nobilo ($11).  More expensive:  Mason Cellars reserve ($25), St. Supery ($18) or make your guests go “ooooh” with Cakebread Cellars ($25-30).

3.  Red: Make sure to open your red wine 1 or 2 hours before you serve dinner, to let it breathe.  Just pop out the cork and let the bottle sit there until it’s time to pour.

For me, the red for Thanksgiving is pinot noir.  It’s got grace, spice, and it’s a little lighter than most other red wines, so it’s perfect for turkey.  Budget:  Mark West Santa Lucia Highlands ($14) or MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast ($15).  Moderate cost, yet delicious: Bouchaine 2007 ($25).  Even better: Lange Three Hills Cuvee ($37) or Lange Freedom Hill ($65), or anything by Domaine Serene (they start at around $37-40 for the Yamhill Cuvee).   Serious budget: Mark West ($9) — this one is less of a “crowd pleaser” because it has a strong personality, but it’s great if you love pinot.

A more intense and more American choice is red zinfandel.  Red zin is heavier than pinot noir, but can still be nicely spicy.  Budget:  Zen of Zin ($12) or Rosenblum ($16).  Moderate to best: Anything by Ridge, or — look for a “reserve” or other special bottling that costs over $20 by any of these names, and buy the most that you can afford: Cline, Ravenswood, Rosenblum, Rabbit Ridge, or Rancho Zabaco.

Again, there’s no right or wrong answer and it’s always great to drink what you like.  Merlot, chardonnay, whatever, as long as you enjoy it, that’s what counts.  Either way, I hope this list helps.  And if you enjoyed it, I hope you’ll sign up to receive new posts by email (“Subscribe,” upper right of this page).  Cheers!





Rosemount shiraz review – ARE YOU KIDDING ME?

18 11 2010

Rosemount shiraz reviewTonight your fussy, picky Wineguider reviews a 2008 Australian shiraz that’s only $8 at my local store, and just $6.50 at Total Wine.

What is this, some kind of a joke?

How much, for this jammy plastic explosive?  $6.50??  This big, dark, chewy, fruit and tannin-filled shiraz costs what?

OK if you’re reading this, you probably know what cheap red wine tastes like.  Think about the last time you trusted a good-looking flight attendant who offered you a merlot, and suffered the consequences.  Or the last time you ordered “red wine” at a hotel bar.  Rough.  Bitter.  Weak.  Totally anonymous. Fraudulent. And you paid nine U.S. dollars for one glass of it, didn’t you.

But wait — I can offer you a whole bottle of feel-good, for $6.50 — less than a carwash.  I’m not saying it has huge individual personality.  And it’s not perfect, or layered, or complex.  But it’s SO drinkable, and it’s so cheap, that you can grant yourself forgiveness with it.  Forgiveness for all of those bad drinking decisions at “hip” after-work nightspots (for example).   Just order your favorite Chinese food, and get some Rosemount shiraz.  And get ready for a good time.

Go ahead.  You deserve redemption.  Rosemount is there for you.

At $6.50, or $8, highly recommended.  And, a “Best Value.”  Enjoy!





Line Shack petite sirah review – a close call

15 11 2010

This powerful petite sirah from southern Monterey and San Antonio Valley, California cost me $15 at Total Wine.

Line Shack was recommended very enthusiastically by someone whose opinion I respect, so I had some expectations when I tried it.   It’s really, really deep, and dark purple, and really, really “dark berry” in your mouth, like a jam of blackberries and blueberries with some dates and something else that’s dark.  And maybe too sweet, or even much too sweet.  And too young.  But then there are some tannins that creep in later, to remind you it’s serious.  

It’s also a bit hot, as they say, with the 14.9% alcohol content coming off more like 80 proof.  Maybe I’m just not man enough to drink this wine.  Where’s Anthony Quinn when you need him? 

Or, maybe Line Shack is way, way too sweet, so it’s for girly men.  In which case, I’m fine.  I have to say, it’s a very close call, because I can tell this is good wine, but I just can’t hack it.  Really nice texture and very interesting flavors, but tooooo much berry.  Tooooo much alcohol.  Tooooo sweet and deep and dark.   No mas.  ¡Ay, caramba!   This juicy firebomb is . . . at least I’m pretty sure it is . . .

Not recommended.





Three Pears pinot gris review

14 11 2010

Three Pears pinot gris reviewHere’s a 2009 California pinot gris that costs $9.50. or $10.00, or $12 (my cost).

The Wineguider survey is clear!  You want more pinot gris reviews.  (Or pinot grigio — they are the exact same thing.)  So, here you go:  Three Pears scores quickly because it’s not merely alcohol-flavored water, as many of these wines seem to be.  It’s not a face-full of pear flavor, thankfully.  It’s on the sweeter and heavier side for a pinot gris, but compared to other wines, it’s not sweet or heavy at all.  

I learned about Three Pears from super-friendly Kim, at Hockessin Liquors in Delaware.  She absolutely loves it, even though she dislikes pears.  Usually, people don’t “absolutely love” pinot gris, so that caught my interest.  What do others say?  This website calls Three Pears “crisp” and “dry,” but they are lying to your face.  This review calls it “sprightly” and says you’ll get flavors of pear, citrus and apple.  That’s better.  The winemaker’s website mentions pear.

This wine isn’t crazy-good, but it’s good.  Its flavors are mild, so it could be seen as slightly boring.  But I like its relaxed, slightly sweet, pear and apple mojo.  And so, other than Lagaria, Jacob’s Creek and The Birdman, Three Pears is the only pinot gris/grigio so far recommended by your Wineguider.  Enjoy!





Da Vinci chianti review – WHAT IS THIS!?

12 11 2010

Da Vinci chianti reviewToday we review a 2008 chianti from Italy (of course), which costs $10 at my local wine store.  However, I’ve seen it for as high as $14.

Holy cow, is this the perfect value-oriented wine?

It may not be terribly cool to love Da Vinci chianti, but I love it.  But only on day 2, after leaving the bottle corked overnight.  To be honest, when first opened, it struck me as generic, slightly too sweet, and lacking any kind of personality.

On day 2 my views changed, so I suggest letting it breathe — even better, pour it into a decanter.  Da Vinci has noticeable, mouth-drying tannins, but less than many other chiantis. It’s juicy, and very friendly for a chianti.  It’s medium-bodied, verging on full-bodied.  Wine geek words like “mouthfilling” come to mind.  It smells like a sweet Marks-A-Lot magic marker.  And it tastes like oak and vanilla, mixed with strawberry, cranberry, blackberry, and a little smoke.  Perfect?  No.  It doesn’t have the sensual complexity or fresh, organic explosion of colors that you get with a truly great wine.   But at this price, it’s damn near perfection.

WOW.  At $10, absolutely unstoppable.  This crowd pleaser is easily a “Best Value” winner.  Recommended!





Kudos pinot noir review

11 11 2010

Kudos pinot noir reviewHere we have a 2009 pinot noir from the renowned Willamette Valley in Oregon, which costs $15 at Total Wine.

Bias alert!  I don’t usually like light pinot noir.  This review should be taken with that grain of salt. 

Kudos is made by NW Wine Co and has lots going for it: it smells, and tastes, like cherries, with rose petals and dry earth.  But it mostly smells and tastes like a natural, untainted, honest pinot noir.  It does almost nothing wrong.  The cherry is balanced by a nice tartness and moderate acidity.  The price is a bargain for any drinkable Oregon pinot.  Somebody on Snooth called it “astonishing.”  The modest 13.9% alcohol content means it’s not fire-breathing.  And it’s far more interesting than most bargain pinots.  If you enjoy light pinot noir, I think you’ll like Kudos, and maybe even love it. 

On the down side, the fact that it’s a light pinot noir means that I can’t stop dwelling on its leanness, its translucence, its thin, light, not-heavy — OK yes, I do need counseling, but I just wish it were more medium-bodied.  I preferred Mark West Santa Lucia Highlands, reviewed here, at this price level.  Also Kudos isn’t very complex.  But it’s much more interesting than a Mirassou or a Hob Nob.  Finally, I feel that Oregon pinots are overpriced these days.  But in today’s market, Kudos clearly IS a great value for an Oregon pinot. 

Since I liked it despite my bias against its light style, and because it’s an easy-drinking Willamette Valley pinot at a bargain price, Kudos 2009 pinot noir is:

  Recommended.

  Tip: Mine was better on day 2 (cork in place overnight).





Bogle Phantom wine review – HOLY COW

10 11 2010

Bogle Phantom wine reviewNote:  This review has been updated here.

Here’s a 2007 blend of petite syrah, old vine zinfandel, and old vine mourvedre.  It’s from California and costs $18.

Does anybody know the difference between mourvedre and “old vine” mourvedre?  (“I love the old vine, but I won’t touch plain mourvedre with a ten foot pole.”)

Well it doesn’t matter, because this wine is fantastic.  It’s almost a “Must Buy.”  It’s super dark, super deep, super rich, and just, super.  I love it.  Lots of tannins that suck all the moisture out of your head, leaving you with a mouth made of felt, like a muppet.  Tons of juicy cranberries and black cherries.  Smoky spices.  A fun balance of sweet red fruit and dry oak.  And finally at the finish, more muppet mouth.

If you don’t like tannins, do not bother with The Phantom.  But if you like red wine generally, you have to try it.  It’s not super complex, and it’s not super fresh or organic, but at $18 you don’t expect these things.  What you expect is pleasure.

And that’s why, at $18, this juicy, tannic wonder is:

Highly recommended!





Mommy’s Time Out white wine review

10 11 2010

Today’s subject is a 2009 blend of garganega (70%) and pinot grigio (30%) from Italy that costs just $7.

With a name like this, I pretty much HAVE to recommend it, don’t I?  (Wait . . . does mommy really want a “time out”?)  Let’s dive in:  Mommy’s Time Out smells harmless and slightly fruity, with some  lemon and honeysuckle.  Pretty.  It tastes. . . “OK”.  Kind of flat and plain.  Mildly sweet.  Very easy to drink, with just 11.5% alcohol.  Not much tartness or acidity.

It’s better than a cheap pinot grigio, because it’s less alcohol-ish.  And better than a cheap California chardonnay, because it tastes like wine.  But describing the flavor is hard:  if I say “pears” or “melon” or any other common thing, I’ll get struck by a bolt of lightning.  Mommy’s Time Out just refuses to taste like anything specific.  Maybe diluted sweetened lemon?

I probably won’t buy more, even though $7 is a great price.  Don’t forget, for $8 you can get the lovely Anakena sauvignon blanc, and for $6, the spectacularly acceptable Jacob’s Creek chardonnay.  Although it’s a close call because this blend is so easy to drink, this forgettable wine with the unforgettable name is:

Not recommended.

Next!





Cupcake petite sirah review

7 11 2010

Cupcake Petite Sirah review

Here’s a 2007 petite sirah from California’s central coast that costs only $8.99 at the unstoppable Premier Wine in Wilmington, DE.

 This wine is not incredible, but it’s easily good enough to score a recommendation at this bargain price, even at $10, or $11.  Very “berry” in character, you almost feel like this cannot have come only from grapes — they had to use blueberries, didn’t they?  Either way, I keep drinking glass after glass.  It’s not complex, but it does nothing wrong.  Bravo!  I’ve already recommended their cab and merlot, and this Cupcake is the best yet.

The smell is some kind of dessert — blueberry rhubarb pie? — and the taste is sweet (for a red wine), full of dark berries, and just plain good.  Pure.  Tannins appear, but only after you let it breathe for an hour.  I just finished enjoying this wine with a fantastic t-bone steak, and it rocked.  The label says “dense” and “full-bodied”, but I found it pleasantly drinkable and medium-bodied at best.  

Cupcake petite sirah doesn’t taste altered, and it doesn’t taste cheap.  But it is cheap.  And those last two sentences are the main reason that this California girl is:

Recommended!





Iris pinot gris review

6 11 2010

Today’s subject is a 2007 pinot gris from Oregon that cost me $13 (but look here — only $10.80).

This, ladies and gents, is a really cool bottle.  There’s no label!  They just painted in red, purple and yellow on a dark green wine bottle.  The “I” in Iris is represented by a painting of an eyeball.  And the words on the back are sideways.   They provide a dictionary definition of “iris.” 

Their website says: “Beautiful aromas of orange blossoms and jasmine are accented by hints of figs and pears. On the palate this medium bodied wine bursts with tropical flavors of papaya, banana and mango, with a dash of nectarine.”

I don’t know what that means.  Except the banana part.  But it doesn’t taste like a banana.

Although it’s pretty good, and I’m a bit on the fence about it, I can’t recommend that you buy Iris pinot gris, even though it’s from Oregon (which I love) and it’s only $13 (which I love even more).  It’s definitely interesting, and it’s definitely not bad, but I don’t have the desire to keep drinking more and more.  It has some mild sweetness and its aroma is nice, with some melon and a mixture of tropical fruit.  But to my stupid mouth, the main flavor was sort of just, melon-sweetened alcohol.   However, I will be buying more if I find it for $10.

So, at $13 this one is not recommended, unless I am going to an outdoor concert, or a picnic, where a really cool-looking bottle of white wine will score points, in which case, Iris can’t be beat!

Next!





Bogle sauvignon blanc review

5 11 2010

Today we look at a California sauvignon blanc from 2009 that will cost you between $9 and $12.

Bogle is a winery that I really like, although I’ve only reviewed their chardonnay here, and it didn’t get a recommendation.  But the first sip of their sauvignon blanc signalled a change in direction:  my first reaction was, “I want more of this.”

And I still want more, especially at $9.50.  It’s smooth, and has flavors of lemon, lime, grapefruit and a tangy minerality.  Yet it’s also slightly sweet (for a sauvignon blanc), with a soothing hint of melon.  Because of that quiet melon, it’s not as “clean” as some sauvignon blancs, but neither does it choke you with green grass flavor (even though Bogle lists “freshly cut grass” first in its tasting note!).

OK Wineguider, that’s great, but at only $9.50, what’s the catch?  Well, no catch really, other than a slight bit of flatness and lack of complexity, compared to more expensive bottles.  Which you would expect.  Bogle sauvignon blanc is a solid, admirable performer.  (I still want more. . . .)  Your Wineguider hereby decrees that this light and easy white is:

Bogle sauvignon blanc review

Recommended.





Five Rivers cabernet: OH MY GOD

4 11 2010

This review has been updated here.

Five Rivers cabernet sauvignon, which normally goes for $11 or more and was recommended by your Wineguider here, is now selling for $8.99 at Total Wine and, I’m told, at Wegmans.  Thereby CATAPULTING it into “Best Value” status.  Juicy, yet packing a dry punch full of tannins, it’s not as full-bodied as some other cabs, but it does almost nothing wrong.

Is there another $9 cabernet sauvignon on planet Earth that is this good?  I DON’T KNOW.

Are any red wines this good, at $9?  Yes:  Mark West pinot noir, and super-tannic Zestos especial.  But they have strong personalities that prevent them from being budget crowd-pleasers. Five Rivers is generic enough that almost anybody can enjoy it.  Admittedly, this is also its downfall: it can be kind of plain.  And maybe a little sweet for a “real” cabernet sauvignon.

But at this price, I don’t know of any cabernet that comes close.  To my budget red wine drinking friends – enjoy!





Bouchaine pinot noir review – GET SERIOUS

4 11 2010

Today we look at a 2007 pinot noir from the Carneros area of California, which costs $25.

Well, what do we have here?  A pinot noir as dark red (or is it purple?) as many California merlots, with an aroma that gives off some smoke and then whispers to your nose, “get ready for some serious pinot.”  Must taste wonderful, right?

Actually, right!  Although I often prefer Oregon pinots, Bouchaine stole my heart right away.  It is:

  • Juicy.
  • Yet, not sweet.
  • Serious.
  • Yet, easy to drink.
  • Silky.
  • And finally,
  • It is very, very, pinot.  There’s no mistaking it for anything else.  It’s dry and mildly spicy.  Its taste has real depth and includes cranberries and oak.  

It’s very coherent (if that makes any sense) and doesn’t do anything wrong.  Meaning, its flavors come together peacfully, with no random notes sticking out here or there to jar your senses.  This is the kind of behavior that I’m willing to pay $40 and more for, from Oregon.  True, an Oregon pinot might be more complex — but then again, an Oregon pinot might taste like a barnyard and beg to be jammed down my kitchen drain.

So at $25, I think Bouchaine pinot noir is a bargain, maybe even a SCREAMING bargain.  But what if you can only find the 2006?  I liked it too, although the ’07 was maybe a little spicier and a little more complex.  Given the choice: ’07.

Your picky-as-all-hell Wineguider loved this medium bodied wonder, and so it is:

Bouchaine pinot noir review

Recommended!





Jacob’s Creek reserve pinot noir review

3 11 2010
Jacob's Creek Reserve Pinot Noir

Jacob's Creek Reserve Pinot Noir

Hello!  Today, in a mild-mannered Clark Kent of a wine review that will make no mention of urine or the Pain Train, we check out a $12 2007 Australian pinot noir.

OK here’s the deal:  if you love wines with a minerally taste, this is your pinot noir.  And if you don’t . . . you should read on.  The appearance, one bottle of which I received as a sample, matches its taste: somewhat light.  (Jacob’s Creek calls it medium-bodied.)  The aroma is muted, a combination of cherry and alcohol.

On your tongue you get minerality, along with black cherries, raspberries and cloves. It tastes like real pinot noir, and it’s very drinkable, at a low price.  That almost never happens.  The flaw I noticed is a lack of complexity, also true for the $9 Mark West, our value benchmark. 

Which is better?  I prefer the Mark West, because it’s SO pinot, and SO cheap, and because I am not a huge fan of the “minerally” thing in pinot noir. But the Jacob’s Creek Reserve is probably better, because it’s smoother, has a more pleasing texture, and doesn’t have Mark West’s fire-breathing alcohol overtone.  Either way, this Aussie, ladies and gentlemen, is:

Recommended.





SCHUG chardonnay review

2 11 2010

Here’s a 2007 California chardonnay that costs $22 and is from “Sonoma Coast.”

Bias alert!  I’m doing this series because I don’t generally like California chardonnays — so if I can recommend one, it’s probably good enough for most people.  I am not a normal, impartial judge of this kind of wine.

Bottom line:   The most intense white wine I’ve ever tasted.  Unless you’re a crazed California chard fanatic who is looking for the fringe of possible chardonnay flavors, this wine is not recommended.

GAAKK!!!  SCHUG chardonnay may be “respecting the fruit and regional character of each variatal,” but this stuff is VERY challenging to drink right after you open it.  Positively face-wilting with sour flavors, it just defies you to bring it to your lips for a second try.  However, as I explain below, it gets MUCH better on day 2 and could be fascinating to a die-hard California chardonnay fan.  Right after opening, for me the smell was the worst part, reminding your Wineguider of urine and rotting flowers.

On day 2, it definitely got better, with some minerality, citrus and green apple, but it was still VERY intense.  Is this stuff awful, or stellar and academy-award-winning?  I’m not sure!  All I know is, it’s way, way out there.  The smell improved on day 2 as well, morphing into a pleasant combination of light tropical fruits. 

And I have to give some serious “props” to SCHUG chardonnay:  UNlike most California chards, it tastes very organic and very natural.  If I were really into California chardonnay, I could see loving this stuff.  It’s quirky.  It’s off the beaten path.  It’s intense.  It makes a very serious statement.

I just don’t think that the average wine drinker will want to listen.  This one is:

Not recommended.

Next!





Dominican Oaks chardonnay review

2 11 2010

Continuing our marathon California chardonnay week, we look at a $13 contender from 2009 that is unoaked and seems to be available only at Total Wine.

Bias alert!  I’m doing this series because I don’t generally like California chardonnays — so if I can recommend one, it’s probably good enough for most people.  I am not a normal, impartial judge of this kind of wine.

It’s here!  A recommended California chardonnay below $20.  (We also recommended the $20 buttery and intense William Hill chardonnay.) 

The Dominican Oaks Unoaked chardonnay wins BOTH “most contradictory name” and “best chardonnay under $20” in our reviews so far.  It smells like honeysuckles (if you aren’t familiar with this plant, it is a divine aroma). Not terribly complex, but very clean.  It’s balanced:  you get some minerally tartness, and some light sweetness.  Flavors concentrate on lemon-lime and peach.  It’s light, easy to drink, delicious, and its taste is refreshingly natural.

And note: winning “best chardonnay under $20” means that Dominican Oaks Unoaked is better than the $6 Jacob’s Creek, which sounds like faint praise except that the turbocharged value machine Jacob’s Creek has beaten every single chardonnay that we have reviewed from California, at any price, except William Hill.

This mystery wine with the ironic name, no website, no pictures of anything from 2009 and no reviews that I could find is hereby:

Dominican Oaks unoaked chardonnayRecommended.





Morgan “Metallico” chardonnay review

2 11 2010

In this extension of the dreaded California chardonnay week, we review Morgan Metallico 2008 chardonnay, at $18.

Bias alert!  I’m doing this series because I don’t generally like California chardonnays — so if I can recommend one, it’s probably good enough for most people.  I am not a normal, impartial judge of this kind of wine.

Hey!  Maybe I should figure out exactly WHY I hate all California chards!?  Maybe it’s the oak?  That’s why I bought this Morgan: the “Metallico” is named for the metal containers used instead of oak barrells in fermentation.  It’s from Monterey, which is yielding some delicious wines these days.

Great!  No oak!  But, I didn’t like it.  It tasted a little weird, on day 1 and day 2.  Tart citrus combines with sweet tropical flavors, which seems like a great balance.  But the tartness verges on sour.  And the sweetness verges on — well, just weird.  

I keep complaining that California chards are too oaky and too buttery.  Morgan says that it addressed both problems here.  No oak barrells.  And — surprisingly — no “malo-lactic fermentation,” which gives buttery taste by converting malic acid to lactic acid.  (This mutes the naturally tart malic acid in chardonnay grapes.)   But it still tasted a little buttery, somehow.

Maybe I’m just too hard to please.  Maybe I’m just a total jerk.  But whatever the reason, unfortunately, this oakless wonder is:

Not recommended.

Next!





Cakebread Cellars chardonnay review

24 10 2010

We continue our special California chardonnay week with this coveted $42 wine from Napa Valley’s 2007 vintage.

Bias alert!  I’m doing this series because I don’t generally like California chardonnays — so if I can recommend one, it’s probably good enough for most people.  I am not a normal, impartial judge of this kind of wine.

Am I crazy??  This $42 (sometimes $53) (but look here — just $32.98) chardonnay, thought to be one of the best in the U.S., isn’t good enough??  The wine that I actually saw two grown men fight over in an Atlanta liquor store that had only 1 bottle left (one of whom turned out to be my dentist!)??

First, Cakebread was better than this week’s previous (low-dollar) contenders.  We had high hopes, because this chard was one of the best in Napa Valley when I visited Cakebread‘s winery in 2004.  But it seems oakier and more buttery now.  Our first drink made us grimace uncontrollably.  It tasted like the fake, clogged-up stuff you get when you absentmindedly order “white wine” at some stupid work-related event.  The smell was VERY oaky and buttery.  Decanting didn’t help — still tasted like an improved version of Clos du Bois, which we dissed here

But on day 2, things improved a lot.  NOW this golden boy began to act right — a smell of honeysuckles and a taste of (acidic) lemon/lime, countered by (sweet) honeydew melon and cantaloupe.  And a hint of oak, which combined with the citrus to zap your tongue with a mildly spicy “zing!”   Wow — a natural-tasting, balanced, white wine. 

Then there’s the price.  I would highly recommend this wine at $23.  But at $42, or $53, or whatever, I expect a near-orgasmic experience.  So far, only pinot noirs at this price level have earned a recommendation from your Wineguider.  Unfortunately, at $42 this golden boy is:

Not recommended.

Next!





Starbucks serves wine!?

22 10 2010
Starbucks' Olive Way location (from USA Today)

Starbucks' Olive Way location (from USA Today)

We interrupt this California chardonnay week with a brief news bulletin: Starbucks is rolling out a new business strategy that includes serving cheese, cured meats and WINE at certain remodelled locations, in an effort to boost their business in the late afternoon and evening hours.

The atmosphere will be more restaurant-like, with food served on real actual china, and the lights dimmed.  But what kind of wines will be served?  And will they be any good?

Judging from the flagship store on Olive Way in Seattle, they will be very good, at least for a selection of mid-priced wines.  It looks like Starbucks will stay true to its hometown, serving wines from the northwest like the cabernet sauvignon from Chateau Ste. MichelleBarnard Griffin‘s fume blanc, and the super organic Snoqualmie Naked riesling. The merlot is from “House of Independent Producers,” which is a slightly mysterious effort by Christopher Hedges of Hedges Family Estate to, apparently, give massive wine producers an outlet for higher quality, single-vineyard wines (raising the question, who’s wine is it, anyway?). 

Further “south,” the menu will include Erath pinot noir from Oregon.  Much further south, you will be able to score a malbec from Alamos — although in my not-really-that-humble opinion, you should avoid both of these.  Representing Europe will be the pinot grigio from Maso Canali.

Finally, the lone Californian will be the William Hill central coast chardonnay, which recently scored a big ol’ buttery recommendation here.

Target pricing: $7 to $9 a glass, and $22 to $34 a bottle.  Beer will be also be served, at around $5. 

If you get a chance to visit the flagship store, please leave a comment and let us know what you thought!





Clos du Bois 2009 chardonnay review

21 10 2010

LET’S GET READY TO RUMMM-BLLLLE!!!!  Today we continue our special California chardonnay week by reviewing the Clos du Bois 2009 chardonnay, which will cost you $12.

Bias alert!  I’m doing this series because I don’t generally like California chardonnays — so if I can recommend one, it’s probably good enough for most people.  I am not a normal, impartial judge of this kind of wine.

Et tu, Clos du Bois?  This is the THIRD DAMN California chardonnay I’ve auditioned this week, and I can’t find one that I would buy again.  What’s up, ladies and gentlemen?  I guess I am just too cheap and too optimistic, as I have now tried chards priced at $11, $8, and $12. 

What I got here was an aroma of “standard California chardonnay,” and a taste of — this was a shocker — “standard California chardonnay.”  Admittedly, it tastes cleaner than Bogle or Kendall-Jackson.  In fact Clos du Bois is not horrible, and does not slap you with grimace-producing chemical flavors, but the problem is, there’s just no reason to keep drinking it.  Pale yellow in color, it had notes of oak, butter, grilled pears, broasted pineapple . . . oh who cares?  Life is meaningless!

(Sorry about that.)  And check this out: after 3 days in the fridge, this chardonnay transformed into some kind of flavored water.  Monday night, when first opened:  blah chardonnay.   Thursday afternoon:  yellow sports drink.  I’m having some right now.   Nothing.   It’s vaguely buttery, and has a light spice.  Whatever. 

Looks like we’re going to have to up our game for the next California wine that we audition, ladies and gentlemen.  CHOO CHOOOOOOOOOOO!!  Here come the PAIN TRAIN, YO.  As I commence a 2nd mortgage application on my house to purchase our next contender, today’s ordinary $12 California chardonnay is:

Not recommended.

Next!





Bogle 2009 chardonnay review

19 10 2010

The second contender in California chardonnay week is the 2009 Bogle Vineyards at $8.  That’s $3 less than the almighty Kendall-Jackson (which we rejected for tasting like a bunch of chemicals and for its unrelenting mediumness).

Bias alert!  I’m doing this series because I don’t generally like California chardonnays — so if I can recommend one, it’s probably good enough for most people.  I am not a normal, impartial judge of this kind of wine.

“WHOA.”  That was my first reaction.  This stuff is truly intense.  It smelled like sweet mangos, butterscotch, and lemon — far more interesting than the Kendall-Jackson factory.   The taste?  Oaky and buttery . . . lemon and green apple acidity . . . butterscotch, melon, cream, some real sweetness . . . and, like Kendall-Jackson, the feeling that I was ingesting random chemicals.  At least it’s a little spicy.  That was my favorite part about this bargain white wine.

Bogle is a cool winery.  It’s family-owned.  They keep the price of this wine really low (which is a mystery, because it’s at least as good as Kendall-Jackson).  And I hear great things about their bargain cabernet and “ThePhantom” red blend. 

But I can’t recommend this chard.  Which isn’t surprising because, as I’ve said, I generally don’t like California chardonnays.  I wouldn’t go as far as this guy, who called the 2004 Bogle chard “undrinkable,” but I can’t agree with this other guy who said it was his favorite chard under $10.  Wow.   As for me, it really smells wonderful, but this intense California chardonnay is, unfortunately, not recommended.

Next!





Kendall-Jackson chardonnay review

18 10 2010

Guess what!!?  In this review, we kick off a feature:  California chardonnay week!

Why?   Because I couldn’t find a hammer to smash myself in the face with?  No, I’m doing this because (1) California chardonnays are incredibly popular, and (2) I dislike them so much, that if I can recommend even one with a straight face, it’s likely to be really damn good.

Our first is the big dog, the mac-daddy: Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve from 2008, which sells for $11.  It’s a big label in the wine world, and therefore a little controversial.  See various opinions:

  • here (“it tastes like fruit juice mixed with oak essence and some vodka” … “I will not finish the bottle”)
  • here (“rarely taken seriously”)
  • here (“yellow colored” … “this chard is extremely popular for a reason”)
  • here (“my favorite chardonnay under $12”) and
  • here (“one of my favorite white wines”).

How does it taste?   Not so great.  But not terrible.  The first word I wrote when tasting this medium-bodied yellow fluid:  “chemicals.”  It’s oaky, and buttery, but not excessively so.  It has strong sweetness with vanilla, pear and melon, and medium acidity with citrusy something-or-other.  The overall message is:  extremely medium.  If I needed a good California chardonnay, I’d definitely spend the extra bucks and get William Hill, which I reviewed right here.

Why is KJ one of the best selling wines in the universe?  I don’t know.  Perhaps Oprah recommended it?  Or perhaps your Wineguider is screwed up, and this is really great wine?  We’ll let the comments sort this out.  So, our first entry in this week’s California chardonnay face-smashing celebration is too medium and too chemical-ish and thus is:

Not recommended.